Well-groomed eyebrows helpframe the face, which makes knowing how to shape your arches a coveted skill. Still, the thought of over-plucking or getting the shape completely wrong can be a little bit daunting. Plus, if you've ever tried a new eyebrow product, you know there's a learning curve to getting it just right.
So, what's the catch to achieving perfect arches? And how exactly do you achieve that perfect shape that lifts the face and enhances the eyes? We reached out to experts Anastasia Soare, Jared Bailey, and Sarah Redzikowski to find out.
Meet the expert
- Anastasia Soareis the founder ofAnastasia Beverly Hills.
- Jared Baileyis a global brow expert for Benefit Cosmetics.
- Sarah Redzikowskiis a celebrity makeup artist.
Keep reading for the best eyebrow shaping tips and how to get some of the most popular brow looks.
The Golden Ratio
While working as an esthetician, Soare noticed that many of her clients were not paying attention to their eyebrows, often considering them an afterthought."When you spend enough time looking at faces, you realize that eyebrows have the transformative power to change someone's entire look," Soare tellsInStyle.
Realizing there was a glaring gap in the market, she began to offer brows as a separate service."I was inspired by the Golden Ratio, a concept I learned about during art school," Soare shares. "It hit me that brows should be shaped and tailored according to an individual's particular bone structure, bringing balance and proportion to the face, and so I developed a formula for the Golden Ratio's application."
The Anastasia Beverly Hills Golden Ratio Shaping Technique uses three measurements to craft brows perfectly tailored to an individual's unique bone structure. The brand also launchedThe Brow, a revolutionary phone app that can help you perfect the Golden Ratio Shaping Technique from the comfort of your own home. The app works by analyzing your face and finding the perfect shape for your unique bone structure. It also includes virtual consultations, tutorials, and product recommendations.
Bailey agrees that brows should always be tailored to your face. "AtBenefit, we use a technique calledbrow mappingto help identify a shape that will bring balance and proportion to the face and eyes," he shares.
Eyebrow Shaping Tips
Always Use Natural Light
Not everyone's bathroom is built like a terrarium, so if possible, Bailey recommends shaping your brows wherever you get the most natural light."Take a mirror you can prop up and tweeze near a window with even lighting on your face," Bailey says. "Natural lighting helps ensure you get a glimpse of every stray hair."
Say "No" to Magnifying Mirrors
"Using a tiny magnifying mirror should be illegal because you can only see a field of tiny hair versus the actual shape and what it's doing for your entire face," says Bailey.Brows bring balance and proportion to your face and eyes, so you must use a mirror that allows you to see your entire face, not just your eyebrows.
Start With an Outline
When grooming at home, it's helpful to start by outlining and filling in your brows."Once your brows are filled in, tweeze only what falls outside of this area. This ensures you'll never overdo it," says Soare. Just make sure to use a quality pair of slant-tipped tweezers to avoid breaking off the hair close to the base and causing unnecessary pain.
Trim, Don't Cut
The most difficult part of DIY brow grooming is the trim, but a good trim job can change your entire look for the better.
"To trim your brows, you'll need a tiny pair of brow scissors and a flexible brow gel likeBenefit 24-Hour Brow Setter," says Bailey. "Start by brushing the hair up towards the hairline and out towards the temple and let it dry completely. Next, use the tiny brow scissors to clip just the ends of the hair that extend past the shape. If you cut the hairs too short, the coarse hairs will stick straight out rather than lay flat."
Tweeze in the Right Direction
The most common mistake people make when tweezing is removing the hair in the wrong direction."Each hair is connected to a tiny blood vessel that keeps it healthy and allows it to grow back when the hair is removed," Bailey says. "Once that vessel is ruptured, the hair never returns."
To tweeze properly, Bailey notes it's important to hold the skin taut with one finger and then tweeze the hair in the direction it is growing. Typically, that direction is upward or toward the temple rather than straight out.
Make Sure Your Brows Aren't too Far Apart
Believe it or not, your nose plays a big part in creating precise, picture-perfect eyebrows and helps indicate where they should start."Brows should begin directly above the middle of your nostrils," explains Soare. "Brows too far apart or that overlap these points can make the eyes appear wider or close-set."
Know Where to Arch—and Don't Overdo It
Getting the arch in your eyebrow correct is extremely important when it comes to defining the overall shape."The highest point of the arch should connect the middle of the tip of the nose with the middle of the iris," says Soare. "When the arches are too close, the brows seem nonexistent, and if they are too far out, it can cause the facial features to be overshadowed by brows." Connect and fill in your eyebrows based on this guideline.
And of course, say no to power-plucking. "As tempting as it may be to grab multiple hairs, go for one brow hair at a time," Bailey says. "This will help ensure you don't grab the wrong one and end up with a patch or a hole."
End at the Corners
According to Soare, your eyebrows should end where the nostril's corner connects with the eye's outer corner."Tails that don't hit this endpoint can look nonexistent and highlight wide-set eyes," adds Soare. "An open-ended tail can add more space to the parameter of the face, making it look wider."
Eyebrow Makeup
If you haven't shaped your eyebrows in a few months, brow makeup has probably become your best friend. Drawing on a perfect arched eyebrow with a soft brow pencil or eyebrow powder will also cut down on your reshaping appointments.
There is definitely an art to enhancing your brows with makeup, but once you get the hang of it, you'll achieve perfection every time. Soare suggests using an ombré effect to fill in your brows, as this will help you get the most natural look.
"To achieve this look, go in with a light hand and start applying product at the arches, working towards the tail. Then, with the last bit of remaining product, fill in the inner part of the brow," Soare explains. "This ombré mimics the density and shadow of naturally full brows."
Popular Eyebrow Looks
The Laminated Brow
"First, I brushed the brows up and used my finger to lay the hairs down flat usingAnastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze," Redzikowski shares. "After the Brow Freeze was dry, I used theChanel Stylo Sourcils Waterproof Defining Longwear Eyebrow Pencilto draw in hair-like strokes in the direction of the hair growth."
"Take a photo once you think you're done with your brows," Redzikowski says. "This allows you to step away from the mirror and see your brows differently, and often, you will be able to see any asymmetry and be able to correct it."
The Stay-All-Day Brow
"Acacia [the model] has beautiful brows that just needed a little refining," says Redzikowski.
If you have similar brows that you'd like to define, the artist recommends filling in sparse areas withMaybelline Tattoo Brow Penciland setting the brows in place withGrande Cosmetics Grandebrow-Fill Volumizing Brow Gel in Clear. "This combination of products is great for oily skin or hot days, as they stay in place, and you don't have to worry about your brow sliding off," shares Redzikowski.
The Full, Natural Brow
To enhance these full brows, Redzikowski starts by mixing setting spray with brow wax. "I swirled [it] around with a spoolie to form a paste," Redzikowski says. "I then brushed and laid the hairs into place. After the brows set, I used theNYX Lift 'N' Snatch Brow Tint Pen in Ash Brownto create hair-like strokes in any areas that were less sparse but kept the brow very natural."
To help speed up growth for thick, healthy brows, Redzikowski recommends rubbing a drop ofcastor oilinto the brows nightly.
The Brushed-Up Brow
For these brows, Redzikowski starts by lightly filling in her brows usingShiseido Brow Ink Trioin Deep Brown. "This creates shading in sparse areas but allows the brow to still look very natural and not too dark," she shares.
Next, she spraysUrban Decay All Nighter Setting Sprayinto a tin ofSoap Browsand uses a spoolie to mix up a paste. "I gently brushed the paste into the brows until I got the desired shape," Redzikowski says.
The Microbladed Brow
If you're often in a hurry and don't have time to perfect your brow shape,microbladingcould be your time-saving solution.
"I had microblading done, and it's a huge time saver, as I never give myself enough time to get ready. [In terms of products,] I love theCharlotte Tilbury Legendary Brows Eyebrow Gel in Star Brow," Redzikowski says. "The tiny brush helps fill in any sparse areas where my microblading is fading and holds them into place. I can do my brows in less than a minute with this must-have product."